We have made the call to spend a bit more time getting around with the L200 as it is heaps easier to cross borders in and around Turkiye and return without penalty. We have done quite the upgrade with a full canopy cover installed that provided us with a massive new amount of storage instead of climbing all over the items to grab anything its all now easily accessible.

A run down on the lower half:

Dual slide outs

35L fridge

Dual cooker

Sink

40L water tank with water pump and shower attachment

Large secondary storage slide out with dual front drawers and large rear storage for tooling and recovery gear

Dual battery setup, 200amp hours total

Electrical cabinet (currently getting upgrades)

Upper half:

1.8mx2.1m tent

180Watt solar panel

270 hard shell awning with lighting

Shower hut

Starlink mini on the roof rack

And just straight up wanky stuff:

Running boards

Roof rack with lights

Rear reverse lighting

This new setup allows camping to be much easier in the Europe area as areas are tight and setting up out little Pajero actually takes a surprisingly large amount of room with everything not on slides. Well more like, it looks like were parked up for ages and a bit untidy so with this its easier to stay a little under the radar so to say.

I will add, I will be redoing a lot of the electrical in the following weeks, so stay tuned for the updates to ensure we have a solid unit.

But don’t worry, there is a plan for the shorty still.

Return to Build Page I Home Page

The post Ruby 2.0 appeared first on WrongTurn.com.au.

Initial review is good, its does need some work, but we expected that when we purchased it. It is powered by a 2.5L 4D56T just like the old Pajero’s, but now it is DID. There is now a larger turbo, and tuning to get some extra power and even on the 33″ tyres it still moves.

Planned mods will be kept minimal, I say that every time though. our first item will be a compressor though. There is still some small pre trip repairs and fitting to do as well, mainly get the 33″ tyre under the backend, and then sort the exhaust out as it will foul on the spare tyre in its current location.

Return to build page

The post Introducing, Ruby appeared first on WrongTurn.com.au.

Touchy topic, some people prefer old school, some prefer to have every gadget under the sun in their wagon. I have tried hard to meet somewhere in the middle to not only keep the weight down. Which I am still over GVM, But I can’t loose much else. There is always a downside to running a short wheel base machine. I will basically go through a list of our major mods that keep us rolling on our trip.

Long range fuel tank:

This is a major as the shorty only has a factory tank that holds 72L, but I have dented it so lets say 65L useable, now through in deep sand consumption at 30L per 100.. I am not getting far. Step in the long range fuel tank. This buys me about 55L useable of extra fuel. Basically doubles my range. Its got its own gauge and electric transfer pump. I also now carry 60L on the roof when I know we will be spending longer than a week away from a servo.

A rolling fuel station

Exterior Protection:

I will cover protection in a solid hit, up front we run an ARB Sahara bulbar complete with 12000lb winch (That we have never used on a trip yet) and a small 20” LED light bar. Good frontal protection takes some of the stress out of driving in the super busy towns and congested roads. Along with smaller animals will not be a trip ending hit, although we don’t drive at night to avoid this situation.

Down the sides we have a set of bush skins sliders, great for climbing on, and also protecting the sills. Its cheap insurance in my books, as I have replaced the sills on my old wagon and do not recommend it. From bush skinz underneath I have the 3 piece underbody protection plates. 4mm mild steel, which I want to replace with 6mm aluminum as I will save 22kg which is a win.

I guess its protections in a sort. not so much body, but engine, The snorkel, Its a Safari. Mainly used to avoid dust, but every once in a while we do have a deep water crossing.  Its a bit of a job to install one, give yourself a solid afternoon including beer time. 

I will also add that super dark window tint is something I would suggest. I even have the front window tinted, not only does it keep the vehicle cooler, it stops the chances of theft as you cant actually see into the car anymore. 

On the rear I have a dual swing away bar that I manufactured myself. It can take a beating on steep drop offs, doesn’t rattle at all. And obviously allows me to carry 2 spare tyres. I have positioned the spares as close as possible to keep the weight forward. I think there is only 5-6mm of clearance in some areas. I had to modify the rear door because of this as the handle was in the way. So chop chop and re plated with a pull cord to open.

Roof Top Tent:

The famous roof top tent, this is a life saver on long trips. I have wired in lights and dual USD charging ports so it feels like you are really at home. As well I have some zip ties that hold a cell phone hanging so you can watch a movie before bed. The tent is a Howling Moon Tourer. I picked it up used, and would say it so far has been worth every penny. A good nights sleep in the bush is priceless.

Electrical:

Tunes!! Don’t skimp, I know this sounds sort of pointless as its not needed, but a cable free cab is so nice, our stereo hooks up to 2 phones so we can easily swap between. You’re going to need the tunes while in the middle of Namibia on the long desert crossings. For safety we also have picked up a spot X that I can actually send messages on if required, along with the standard tracking.

Interior Storage:

Custom built, as most of my stuff. I kept it light and decided to get rid of my drawers, as nice as drawers look they are heavy. I saved 80kg by going this route. And made better use of my storage area. It’s a very simple design, using 25mm square tube and a wood base. I had the fridge slide already for the waeco. The fridge height is a bit high, but we make do using a step. The front blue box keep all of our clothes dry and dust free. And to stop anything coming forward I also used the treds as a stopper.  The treds have yet to be used.. maybe one day we will get stuck, doubt it though… haha

These are just some of the basic items we have that help with the trip. Keep it simple, try to keep it light. And enjoy the sights.

Update 2022:

We have added a Webasto heater to wagon, its a 2kW diesel heater we have fed from the main tank, so far it has kept the tent warm in -5 and snowy conditions so we are over the moon. definitely adds a year round possibility for us.  I designed a custom box that I cut into the rear door.

Back to Modifications I Back to home

The post General Modifications appeared first on WrongTurn.com.au.

I won’t go into solar as I don’t have a setup yet, but If you are parking up frequently for longer than 3 days, I suggest getting solar. We will eventually get a solar blanket. But that’s a future project.

The setup:

Dual battery setup – I run 2 x n70zz batteries under the bonnet. It’s a tight squeeze but it works and allows me a 105 amp hour second battery which buys me about 3 days parked up.

Intervolt EBI Pro – adjustable isolator, due to the nature of the slow build up from the factory alternator I have set my kick in voltage to only 13.8 so my battery starts a charge very quickly. But I have the cut-out still set at 13.9 so that I never have to worry about the starter battery.

Keep it simple, and keep it clean

Blue seas breaker panel – I hate fuses, I have one of these in both my wagons, 4 switches, and it allows for a 12v plug and a spare hole which I use for my leads to plug in my lights and tent. It’s a 15amp breaker per switch so as long as you run proper gauge wires you can run a waeco 80L off it with zero issues.

This runs the complete rear of the vehicle with a switch to spare

Usb charging – I need more, I have 2 in the tent for our phones at night and 2 in the vehicle. But with all technical items now requiring usb I will add 2 more. Nice to have a dedicated spot for it as well to avoid adapters coming loose.

Next to the UHF is the usb plug, taking power from the factory 12v plug

Drone plug in –  I have a mavic pro I take, basically I chopped the power plug to suit the 12v setup and glued it to the inside of my center console, out of site, out of mind basically and I don’t have to worry about adapter failing.

Led lights – Who doesn’t love led’s. I have them in tent in a dark orange colour so it doesn’t hurt your night vision nor attract bugs, this is setup via an extension lead style plug in that gets plugged in on setup so I have no wires going through the body.  As for lights outside, I have 2 lights under the awning in an off white/yellow colour and 1 under the tent that you can use when it is folded out. So far this has provided us with ample light for any projects we may have. And they have a low amperage draw.

Large draw items:

Everyone has them, make sure your cables and fuses are up to the task. I have only 2 large draw items, a winch and an air compressor. I have specifically made sure they are wired to the starting battery and can only be operated if the car is in the on/run position.  Deep cycles are not made for the draw these items pull.

Winch – I ran with a Dominator 12000lb winch, but I got rid of all the controllers as space is a premium and have a 2 way rocker switch on the dash for activation from the drivers seat. To me this was a better idea than dealing with trying to plug a controller in as I have hid the solenoid box behind the grill to keep a clean look.

Testing lights, and the winch  Dual action rocker for the winch, Also pictured is the battery combine switch for hard starts.

Air compressor – The star of the show, almost daily use depending on where we are driving it seems. Same as the winch, large draw so off the starter battery. I have mounted mine underneath passenger seat for easy access and as space is a premium that was the perfect area of dead room.

Spare parts:

I only take a few items with me, basically some wire, a few fuses and relays. But the big-ticket item, the volt meter. Keeps the load light and honestly with new cars if you are beyond a simple wire and relay repair. Even up to bridging sensors out, there is a chance the vehicle will be in the tow zone.

Its overall a simple system. Keeps my beer cold and allows me to see at night. And doesn’t break the bank.

How much of those wiring harness’ do you really need? Not as much as you think

Bonus: Trailer wiring, I don’t tow much anymore, but I do have a redarc tow pro elite, which I highly rate, good control, and easy setup. worked well with my caravan and the electric brakes. 

UPDATE: March 2022

I have installed a new setup inside from nautia engineering which moves all my switches to a single area and I have also installed 3 gauges in a separate custom panel. We can now monitor trans temp, EGT’s and boost pressure. The setup looks much cleaner and also allowed for the installation of 4 usb ports.

We also installed a 140Watt bonnet mounted solar panel system. So far its running great.

Back to Modifications I Back to home

The post Electrical appeared first on WrongTurn.com.au.

Engine:

Keeping an engine stock is normally required for these type of vehicles, but I have a habit of adding extra power and the factory DPF has been known to give issues and that last thing I need is a limp code miles from a dealership. This setup allows a pretty reliable setup as I have had zero issues that have left me stranded.

Modfications:

Plug and play chip

EGR delete

DPF delete

3” exhaust

Provent catch can

Diesel pre filter

Safari Snorkel

JonnyTig intercooler

Transmission:

The trans is basically all factory, fresh oil flush and a lock up kit is installed. Keeping it simple. A planned upgrade is a bigger cooler though for hot days in the sand.

Link for those interested

Diffs:

All factory optioned, I have ended up with an air locker rear from factory but still need to hook it up.

Update: March 2022

The locker is hooked up via the factory switch but I have avoided the use of the factory computer. Keeping it simple.

We have also added a traction control on and off switch from Cronos 4wd.

Suspension:

Lets face facts, factory suspension doesn’t cut it. I have gone with a set of dobinsons springs front and rear for a 45mm lift and a set of airbags compliment the rear for when I am fully loaded. The shocks in the front are lovells shocks and rear is tough dog 41mm foam cells.

The combination allows for offroad bumps to not be felt and highway to feel almost like a car. A tough balancing act, but was doable.

The rest of the running gear has been left factory but replaced to avoid breakdowns due to age as the wagon currently has 293000kms on it.

Wheels and tyres:

Currently sitting on BF Goodrich All Terrains in a 265/65r18 size which allow me to still air down for comfort yet provide a good enough sidewall for weight bearing.  Next round of tyres I am looking at moving to a 275/70r18 which are 40mm larger in size just for a bit more clearance in the sand when aired down. Rims are factory with no plans to change them as I have pushed them out with a 30mm spacer which has held up for over 25000kms of Africa’s toughest roads without issue

A take away would be try to leave as much factory as you can get away with, I have changed some engine dynamics to avoid break downs on route that are problematic with the vehicle but otherwise its pretty oem overall allowing easy repairs. You can download manuals for on the road repairs, but I do suggest getting to know your vehicle very well to prevent getting stuck of a simple break down. 

Return to Build page

The post Drivetrain appeared first on WrongTurn.com.au.

That is the joke of the day, there seems to be no correct answer as everyone you talk to has a different idea on what you should be using and how you should be using it. I have been using pajeros for the last ten years and will stand by them, will it suit your personal style maybe maybe not. I will go over a few reasons on the choice and the pros and cons of this type of vehicle along with some of the mechanical features.

Vehicle: 2007 Mitsubishi Pajero

I picked this wagon up 3 years ago with the sole intent of having a small daily driver/weekend warrior but as my trips got more and more remote I had to modify the wagon to suit my need, it started small with a dual battery system, then moved into dual fuel tanks and finally ended up being stripped out to allow for a storage system.

PROS:

Off road ability:  It is nothing short of a mountain goat, with amazing entry and departure and angles you will be hard pressed to get hung up on any rocks no matter what the trail throws at you, along with the factory traction control system lockers are an option that I wouldn’t recommend unless you plan on strictly rock crawling. It floats over sand with ease.

On road handling:  This is a tricky one, how do you get great off road use and on road? well you use IFS/IRS, driving is quite the pleasure, it handles like a car, stays stable in the corners and instill confidence while zipping through traffic. As much as we try to stay off road you will always end up on highways so you might as well enjoy it. crank the tunes, set the a/c and enjoy a smooth bump free ride.

Power: The 3.2 is not short on grunt, But is also a little heavy on fuel at times. Even with the weight at 3.1T we easily power up hills and through deep sand. fuel use seems to range from 11.5/100 to 13/100 on the highways. But deep soft sand can see our usage climb to an eye watering 30L/100, and with a 69L main tank your range starts to fall quickly.

Cons:

Tight inside: Having shorty looks cool, but there is some serious storage constraints when it comes to interior room, I make the most of what I have available utilizing internal body panel space and under floor storage. The plus is that you cant over pack, everything serves a purpose and there is no waste.

Automatic transmission: This item is a tricky one as they weren’t offered in a manual in Oz, it is a 5 speed, I do have a lock up kit in it which helps heaps, but in sand we sometimes don’t go fast enough to lock it up, although I never have overheating issues. I guess it just comes down to personal preference. Will we change it to a manual? If I ever found a wrecking one yes. For now we will continue with the auto but have had zero faults.

Weight: Oh it heavy, with a GVM of 2660 we weight in at 3100… 400kg overweight, and that is stripped down to basics. I could shave a bit if I start to lose protective plates, and the extra spare, but what if comes to play. The plates have saved my bacon heaps. although the dual spares look good we haven’t actually required them yet, but I have in Australia hence why I have them. The shorty is heavy to begin with which causes most problems going forward. but since it shares most of the same components from the LWB model I put it down to suspension support, I have upgraded springs and air bags to hold the load, the wagon sits great and still rides perfect. still trying to figure out a way to lower to weight. 

In the following posts I will go through upgrades that have been done along with modifications that make life on the road easy.

Return to main build page

The post Vehicle Build Intro appeared first on WrongTurn.com.au.